Optimize the manual settings on a DSLR camera; Part 2

On the camera there is a light gauge function is very important in determining the proper exposure. This instrument is called light-meter, its function is to measure the light entering the lens, commonly referred to as metering (usually there are two kinds of options metering on the camera, which is average / multi segment / weight matrix and center / spot). The results of these measurements are sent to the processor in the camera and used to determine how the value of proper exposure. At least this is the way all of the camera work diopersikan automatically via the AUTO mode.

Not all photos taken using the AUTO mode exposure satisfactory results. Sometimes the shutter and aperture value is automatically determined by the camera is not to our liking. For the existence of manual features P / A / S / M can help realize our creativity and ultimately can make better pictures.
These are the things you can do with manual exposure features P / A / S / M on your camera:

• Program mode (P). The letter P here sometimes means spoofed as 'Beginners' because it actually is in this mode is almost the same as using the AUTO mode (hence the P mode is relatively safe to use as the default mode of day-to-day). When the AUTO mode all parameters are determined automatically by the camera, then the P mode while the camera is still determining the value of the shutter and aperture automatically, but we have the freedom to set the value of ISO, white balance, flash mode and Exposure Compensation (Ev). It seems nothing special in this P mode, but wait, there are a few cameras that make it more flexible P mode with the ability to program-shift. With the program-shift, then we can change the variation of the pair-aperture shutter possible while still providing the proper exposure (the concept of reciprocity). If your camera allows program-shift in P mode, try berkrerasi value pairs with a variety of different shutter aperture and discover the difference.
• Aperture-priority mode (A or Av). This mode is optimal for controlling depth-of-field (DOF) of a photo, a way to set the lens aperture value (while the camera determines the appropriate shutter). Set the aperture to maximum aperture (small f value) to get a photo DOFnya narrow (sharp object while the background blur) and otherwise reduce the value of aperture (high f value) to get sharp photos both object and background. Usually the lens compact cameras, the maximum aperture at f/2.8 (wide at maximum) and smallest openings range in f / 9 to f/11 (depending on lens specifications). But in low light situations, minimize the exposure so the diaphragm will create dark, for it let the value of the diaphragm at the maximum position when shooting in low light.
• Shutter-priority mode (S or Tv). This mode is the inverse of the mode A / Av, where we are determining the shutter speed while the camera will find the best aperture value. This mode is useful for creating photo freeze (freeze) or blur from moving objects. By using a very fast shutter, we can capture the motion of a moment frozen sports, for example. In contrast to create the impression of a motion blur (such as trail vehicle lights at night) could be using slow shutter. Using a slow shutter also useful for low-light shooting when there is less light source sufficient to take a long time for the camera captures the light. The thing to remember when using fast shutter, the light should be enough to underexposed photos. Conversely when using slow shutter, the risk of blurry photos due to hand-shake will be higher if the shutter speed is lowered. For that use the image stabilizer feature (if any) or use a tripod. For the record I am, starting my shutter speed value despise and tend to experience blur due to shaky hands is about 1/30 sec, although this also depends on the way we take pictures and habits as well as the position of the lens focal distance. At very low shutter speeds at 1/8 sec, use of stabilizer is not effective anymore and we recommend using a tripod.
• Manual mode (M). At the level of full-manual mode, fotograferlah who served as a determinant of both shutter and aperture values. Light-meter on the camera still works, but is not used to set the exposure values ​​automatically but only as a comparison of how much exposure we set approached exposure measured by the camera. In this mode it takes a good understanding of exposure, in the sense that the photographer must be able to recognize the light conditions at the time and can imagine how much the shutter and aperture as needed. If the variation of these two parameters is not right, surely the resulting image will be too bright or too dark. 

However, when using the manual mode is successful, we could get a photo that has a good exposure exceeds a photo taken with the AUTO mode, Program, Aperture-priority or Shutter-priority. For example, when taking photos at sunset on the beach where it takes the right kind of feeling desired exposure.